As I have mentioned in my previous posts, I have been wanting to take a “real” vacation, (not just a couple days and not for family reasons) for a looong time but I haven’t been able to these past few years for various reasons. I was finally able to in September 2023, as my sister and I had purchased a cruise trip around Ireland.
It however did not go according to plan. To begin with the waves were extremely rough with the ship rocking nonstop. That we could have dealt with, however the “rough weather” turned out to be a lie perpetuated by the Norwegian Cruise line, as Ireland had been attacked by Hurricane Agnes. The Captain planned to take us up to Belfast to shelter off the coast, but he warned us that we might not be able to get off the ship until we reached Southampton for the final disembarkation
We spent three days stuck on the ship, but were finally able to make our stop in the Killybegs’ port.
As soon as we got off the ship we saw a rainbow, and felt like maybe our luck was finally turning around.
Afterwards we had tea at the Tí Linn Café, hiked the Sliabh League, and enjoyed the town of Killeybegs.
The following day was our stop in Belfast, one of the places I really, really wanted to visit. Belfast was one of the must sees on my list We ended up spending the entire day at the Titanic museum.
Our last and final day had us in Dún Laoghaire, right outside Dublin. The original plan was for us to go to Dún Laoghaire and then take the train into Dublin to look at several things there. I know I had planned to stop at several filming locations for Northanger Abbey (2007).
But plans had to change as it took hours for us to get on a tender to the mainland. And I’m not exaggerating, we arrived at 8 but we couldn’t get off the ship until after 11. I have to say for the first time I felt like a lower class passenger.
When we finally got onto mainland we decided to just stay in Dún Laoghaire. Since we didn’t really plan to stay and had no internet on the ship to plan we ended up walking around trying to see what Dún Laoghaire had.
We started at the Wharf and headed down to the National Maritime Museum, although my sister had had enough of Museums so we only visited the gift shop. Next to it is the Royal Marine Hotel that offers a High Tea. We stopped to see if we could participate but they only take reservations, which have to be put in at least a day before. We tried to explain why we couldn’t have made reservations, but no dice.
From there we visited the dlr Lexlcon library, you know me I always find a library wherever I go.
Afterwards, we went to the Irish Design Gallery and viewed items for purchase, my sister finished up buying gifts. The thing we spent most of our time, the thing to do there, is walking the Dún Laoghaire Pier.
The Dún Laoghaire pier was began in 1817, with the construction of the West pier being started in 1820 to add extra support. The pier is built like two large arms reaching out and welcoming ships. In 1842, the Dún Laoghaire pier was completed and considered to be the largest man made pier in the world. During the Victorian Era Dún Laoghaire exploded as a seaside beach resort and with many promenading up and down the pier.
They recommend having a cup of cocoa as you walk the pier, but it was too hot. All weather reports had been wrong-it was windy but hot, hot, hot.
We walked the East pier which is 2.6 kilometers, or 1.616 miles (round trip). While being on the pier, it made me think of the miniseries The Forsyte Saga when Soames travels to invest in seaside town and walks the pier with his future bride. But even more so it made me think of Persuasion.
Persuasion is a story that spans over several years. When Anne Elliot and Fredrick Wentworth are young they become engaged, and Anne is persuaded to turn him down as he could die, she could be left with nothing, they are young, he is leaving for the Navy, her family won’t approve, etc. He thinks it is solely because she from a rich distinguished family, and he is not. He becomes angry, takes a lot of chances in the war and increases his wealth and stature. He returns to find Anne unmarried and her family has had a reversal of fortune, letting their mansion out to Fredrick’s sister and brother-in-law. Anne has never gotten over Fredrick and is shocked to see him enter her life again. Intrigue happens as some women are striving for Frederick’s heart, a woman has a ploy to snag Anne’s father Sir Walter Elliot, and an estranged relative reappears planning to go after his inheritance and cousin. Will the two get their happy ending together? Or has too much time passed?
In Persuasion, Captain Wentworth goes to visit some friends in Lyme Regis and takes Anne Elliot, Charles Musgrove, Mary Musgrove (Anne’s sister), Louisa Musgrove and Henrietta Musgrove (Charles’ sisters). While there they go walking on the Cobb sea wall and Louisa jumps from the sea wall (trying to bring back their flirty game they played in the countryside), having Captain Wentworth catch her. Louisa wants to continue but Captain Wentworth doesn’t as he is worried she might injure herself. However, no one can persuade Louisa as she is determined! She jumps again and gets seriously injured.
“There was too much wind to make the high part of the new Cobb pleasant for the ladies, and they agreed to get down the steps to the lower, and all were contented to pass quietly and carefully down the steep flight, excepting Louisa; she must be jumped down them by Captain Wentworth. In all their walks, he had had to jump her from the stiles; the sensation was delightful to her. The hardness of the pavement for her feet, made him less willing upon the present occasion; he did it, however. She was safely down, and instantly, to show her enjoyment, ran up the steps to be jumped down again. He advised her against it, thought the jar too great; but no, he reasoned and talked in vain, she smiled and said, “I am determined I will:” he put out his hands; she was too precipitate by half a second, she fell on the pavement on the Lower Cobb, and was taken up lifeless! There was no wound, no blood, no visible bruise; but her eyes were closed, she breathed not, her face was like death. The horror of the moment to all who stood around!
Persuasion
In this photo you can kind of see the wall with the high area on the wall and the low one for walking right next to the water. Like Persuasion, it was windy and we walked on the lower level. There was a staircase you used to go up and down the levels that also reminded me of the one that Louisa leaps from in the 1971 film.
Just like in Persuasion (1971), it was rather difficult to get down the stairs, us having to walk sideways. I wish they had put a railing on both sides instead of just the walled side.
And like Persuasion, there were a lot of kids jumping from the top of the sea wall and leaping to the ground just like Louisa. Thankfully I did not witness anyone getting injured, but both my sister and I commented on it and how accurate Persuasion was. I’m sure someone has tried the same thing with their crush/beau.
The pier was very pretty and an excellent walk. Unlike the US they only had vendors at the very beginning of the pier and at the end where the lighthouses are, so there is little trash, bird excrement, or anything like that. However, be sure to bring your own water as there is no place to purchase one if halfway through you grow hot and tired.
But it was a beautiful walk and walking it does feel a little like being out of a regency or Victorian novel/period drama.
For more Ireland posts, go to Tea Time at the Titanic
For more Persuasion, go to The Lost Dreams of Elizabeth Elliot or How Elizabeth Elliot is the “Sad” Version of Emma Woodhouse
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