Hiking the Sliabh Liag or My Own “Liz On Top of the World”

I have mentioned in my previous posts, I have been wanting to take a “real” vacation, (not just a couple days and not just for family reasons) for a looong time but I haven’t been able to these past few years for various reasons. I was finally able to in September 2023, and my sister and I made plans for a cruise around Ireland.

It however did not go according to plan. To begin with the waves were extremely rough with the ship rocking nonstop. But I was willing to put up with that, as we were on a cruise after all.

However, we discovered that the “rough weather” was a lie perpetuated by the Norwegian Cruise line, and it turned out Ireland had been attacked by Hurricane Agnes. The Captain planned to take us up to Belfast to shelter off the coast, but he warned us that we might not be able to get off the ship until we reached Southampton for the final disembarkation

What else?

We spent three days stuck on the ship, but were able to make our stop in the Killybegs’ port. 

Yay!

I was up bright and early, ready to get off the ship ASAP! We had planned an excursion to Sliabh Liag, but that was for later and I was ready NOW to explore and get on land.

As soon as we got off the ship we saw a rainbow, and felt like maybe our luck was finally turning around. 

Killybegs is the largest fishing port in Ireland and its Irish name is Na Cealla Beaga.

As you walk along the sea side they have little plaques that give you snippets of the history of Killeybegs port. Like Cork, Killeybegs wasn’t that cold temperature wise, but the wind was chilly and extremely strong. After spending about 45 minutes in town we headed back to the ship to board our bus for our Sliabh Liag (pronounced Sleeve League) tour. The roads are small and tight and we had to switch to smaller buses before we headed up to the cliffside. Before going to the cliffs part of our package included stopping at the Tí Linn Cafe & Craft Shop. After a cuppa and scone, we continued up the cliffs.

Sliabh Liag is the prettiest place we viewed in Ireland. It is one of the highest cliffs in Europe, and at 601 metres (1,972 ft) the highest most accessible cliffs in Europe. They have a stone trail you can climb that takes you all the way to the top of the cliffs. Normally the hills look more purple from the heather, but they had had an early bloom last year and the heather had turned a reddish brown by the time we got there.

It was incredibly windy on the cliffs and the ground was covered in mud from the rain of the hurricane, along with sheep poop as their sheep are open range. I was hoping to see sheep, but none were out in the area. I tried to climb to the top but fell down twice (catching myself in time both times) and ended up going back down the cliffside while my sister went further.

The wind was so strong it knocked my bag out of my hand and broke my water bottle.

The cliffs were so beautiful and one of the highlights of the trip. If you ever go to Ireland they are a must see.

Being at the cliffs brought to mind many things. The first was one of my favorite paintings, Caspar David Friedrich’s Wanderer above the Sea of Fog, as seen below on my copy of Frankenstein.

But I didn’t get a chance to make it up to the top. Instead I channeled another broody stare while standing on a cliffside; Elizabeth Bennet in Pride and Prejudice (2005). I may not enjoy this film version, but I do think the scene when Elizabeth looks over the cliffs is extremely memorable.

This scene is after Elizabeth has returned home from Rosings and makes plans with her aunt and uncle to go North to the lakes. She wants to tell Jane all that has happened and what she learned about Mr. Darcy persuading Mr. Bingley from courting her; but withholds it as she wants to save her feelings.

I couldn’t go to the cliffside like Elizabeth as the winds were so strong it was an extreme risk. I was very happy for the railing keeping me up.

Beautiful place and definitely worth visiting if you are in the area. Our guides were great and I wish I had recorded all he said as they talked value history, mythology, and the culture of the area.

For more Ireland posts, go to Spill the Tea: Tí Linn Cafe & Craft Shop

For more Pride and Prejudice (2005), go to Jane Austen Birthday Party Music & Party Review

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